Doing your own painting? Don't skimp on prep work

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So as someone who has done a fair amount of DIY interior painting, let me provide some real information. KOMO doesn't even have to pay me.

1) You can't paint over wallpaper. I have never had the displeasure of removing it, it can be a royal PITA. If you want to paint where there is wallpaper check out eHow, I'm sure there is a story on how to remove wallpaper. Having not done it, I'm not going to write how to do it.

2) Wash all surfaces down that are going to be painted. If the walls aren't that dirty you can get away with just water and some white vinegar. Really dirty areas could need a stronger vinegar concentration. You need to get all dirt and grease off the wall without damaging the sheetrock underneath. For really stubborn grease you can use a solution of water and simple green. I like to use a kitchen sponge that has the sponge on one side, and the soft scrubbing surface on the other. Use the sponge for most areas, and the scrub surface for trouble spots. You don't want to soak the walls, just wipe them down, top to bottom.

3) Let it dry. Don't rush it, If you start taping, masking, etc. etc. when it is still damp you'll have a mess.

4) Patch up any holes and damaged areas. For nail holes and small flaws (scratches, smaller gouges, holes up to a 1/4") some plain old spackle will do just fine. You can buy it ready to go from any paint supply store. For larger holes (door knob punched through door, moron who punched the wall) they sell wall patching kits. The kits come with a mesh that is held over the hole by a strong adhesive. The mesh then provides a framework for spackle. You'll build it up about 1/8" deep and then flare out the edges. It takes just a little bit of practice. The entire kits are sold at most paint stores and home supply stores. Just follow the directions and be patient. If the walls are texture, most home supply and paint stores will sell a texture wheel. You run it over the spackled area so it has some texture to it and blends better. Small patches for nail holes won't stand out - but large patches that aren't texture to match will stand out like a sore thumb.

5) After patching the walls, because part of the spackling process requires sanding to blend the edges, you need to rewash the walls and vacuum out the dust. Just go very light with a damp sponge. You're just getting the dust off and any finger oils you may have put on the wall fixing them.

6) If you have electrical fixtures go ahead and remove the wall plates. You don't have to remove the fixtures themselves, just the decorative cover plate. Most are held in by two screws (four for a two junction box, six for a three, etc. etc.). Put them somewhere safe where you can find them later (yes - I lost them once - d'oh!)

7) Tape, tape, tape! I recommend Frog Tape. The Painters Blue tape is good, but it can still bleed. If you're walls have texture the challenge level increases. Make sure when you tape your lines are good and straight. Work with as long of runs as possible. At seams on the tape you create points where paint can bleed. They sell tape that has clear plastic attached to it. This is great for protecting baseboards. If you have carpet I would go ahead and protect the whole floor with plastic sheeting. Drips can be more easily cleaned from tile and hardwood with Oops (that's what it is called). The best thing to do is wipe it up immediately. If you can't get the furniture out of the room then cover it up to protect it. And don't be ghetto! Yes, that piano could be a real pain in the butt to move, but deciding to paint around it could be a decision that bites you in the butt down the road. Take over the electrical outlets and switches so you don't slop paint on them.

8) If you're going from a very dark color to a light color, you should primer the walls. No, I don't care what the nice paint guy at Home Depot told you. Use Kilz - it will put a nice matte white on the wall to cover dark areas and allow neutral and light colors to show without having the dark under it cause a problem. If you have a really dark color (one time painting a girlfriends living room she had a very dark color to a chair rail, followed by a light color) it may take a couple of coats of Kilz to prep (but that is extreme)

9) Let it dry. When you paint make sure you have the right tools. You won't just need roller brushes, but you'll need corner brushes, a couple of small regular brushes (the disposable foam brushes are actually really good), sufficient lighting, a ladder, a paint tray (buy the liners, don't take short cuts), and I recommend the plastic paint can covers that act as a pouring spout too. They are inexpensive and will make life much easier.

10) Mix the paint. No short cuts here. The longer you mix the better. Seriously, I recommend 3 minutes of moderate stirring. Be sure to not go crazy so you don't spill paint every where, and pull the thick "sediment" (for a lack of better word) up toward the top to get it good and blended.

11) Yes I know, the nice person at the paint store told you you could paint with a single coat. Do you want to do it right or wrong? Two thin coats will look so much better than one thick coat. If you're getting drips, too thick spread it out. If you're not getting adequate color coverage, too thin, go with a bit more paint. Work in an area that is maybe 6' X 3' at a time. Blend and feather as the paint gets thin before you go back to the paint tray for more. Use a corner brush to get the corners, and then feather out with a regular brush, and then feather those edges with a paint roller. Nice and clean!

12) If you have a splatter ceiling cut a piece of stiff, thin cardboard and use it as an edging tool. Go slow, and accept that if you haven't painted before, it is going to be less than 100% perfect. If you take your time, hold it at the right angle (about 33 to 45 degrees) with the right pressure, you can get a darn straight line to the edge of a splatter ceiling without too much bleed. Also, a lot of splatter ceilings have asbestos, so try not to knock off too many nubbies.

13) Before you put everything back check for missed spots. Have a second set of eyes come in to do the same. When you pull tape go SLOW and at a 90 degree angle. Don't let the lengths you pull get too long. You can rip existing paint off the wall (ack!).

14) Dispose of everything properly. Put all the electrical cover plates back on, put your furniture back

15) Keep extra paint, you can use it for touch up years later. If you did multiple rooms make sure to write with a Sharpie the month/year, the color, and what room(s) it was used in. 

There - is that the story you were hoping to read?  ;-)

This was incredibly uninsightful.